Dermaplaning 101: A Complete Guide to Getting Started

Woman gettig dermaplaning treatment
Dermaplaning has a fantastic ROI

Roschel Wynn, owner of Alchemy Aesthetics Academy, joined us at the Face & Body spa show on Aug. 21, 2023 to lead the advanced education class on dermaplaning. This treatment can be done once every 28-30 days, and it is an excellent exfoliating option for clients. But, this treatment is so much more than that. 

The cell turnover rate for a baby is every 14 days. However, when we get into our late 30s and early 40s this decreases incredibly, meaning the stratum corneum begins to weight down. This is what causes the fine lines and wrinkles to begin to form. 

Dermaplaning is an excellent treatment option for addressing these skin concerns and giving an advanced exfoliation treatment. 

History of Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning has actually ben around for a very long time. The Eygptians actually used sharp stones to clear the surface of their skin. In more modern times, this has been used by dermalotologists as a treatment before chemical peels. So, this treatment is nothing new being brought to the industry; it's just finally entering the esthetics field.

Benefits of Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning is an excellent option for improving the texture of the skin as well as softening fine lines and smoothing the tone and texture of the skin. Dermaplaning is also a great option for helping with hyperpigmentation. There are few contraindications when it comes to dermaplaning like inflammed acne lesions. Wynn did share that this is one of the few advanced exfoliating treatments that can be performed on pregnant clients. 

However, proper technique is crucial when it comes to delivering these benefits to your clients. The blade should be held at a 45 degree angle, and the blade should be constantly moving around that client. Mastering the dermaplaning technique is an absolute necessity when it comes to adding dermaplaning to your menu and giving your client great results. 

Dermaplaning Blades

First things first, if your client shares that they dermaplane their face at home, and they are talking about using a Tinkle razor, share with them that that is not dermaplaning. It is important to prepare your clients for the difference between what they've been doing and what you, as the professional, will be doing. 

Nothing with a strong sharp point should be used when dermaplaning. Wynn stressed this point heavily, and shared that butter blades is what should be used when choosing your dermaplaning blade. Something else to keep in mind is that stainless steel will have a little more flexibility to it.

This is why the 10R blade is the perfect blade for this. The stainless steel makes it flexible, it does not have the sharp point and it has a polymer coating.

Preventing Injury

As mentioned before, Wynn shared that technique is everything when it comes to properly dermaplaning your treatment. However, there are more ways to avoid injury than just that. 

No talking. Conversation should be avoided for a few purposes. There should be only a maximum of eight passes over the skin with the dermaplaning blade. When you are talking with your client, you could lose count. You do not want to be overlapping where you are shaving the skin. On top of that, you are more likely to nick your client if they are talking while you're trying to dermaplane them.

Tight skin. You have to hold the skin taught to keep from nicking the client, even microscopic cuts is not good. 

Relax the client. Make sure your client is relaxed before the treatment. Explain the procedure to them, and share that you are going to start the treatment. Emphasize that they can just let you know if they have to sneeze or cough, but that you will not be talking during the treatment. 

Flip the blade. If you are feeling nervous about the treatment, take a minute. Flip the blade over and practice with the non-sharp side of the blade until you get your confidence back. Then resume as normal. 

No shakes. Drinking excess coffee can also be a dangerous move if it is going to give you the sakes.

Injury Protocol

Injury happens, but here is what Wynn shared you should do if it happens. 

  • Pause the service and set the blade in a safe, sterile place.
  • Don't freak out, gasp or panic.
  • Grab your prepped gauze and apply firm pressure.
  • Elevate your clien'ts head. 
  • Apply cornstart or coagulating powder to the cut. 
  • Commence procedure for the rest of the face. 
  • Document the event. 


While dermaplaning is not a new treatment, it is one that is gaining in popularity more and more every day. It is an excellent treatment to add to your toolbelt that you will find peaks many consumer's interest. Not to mention, Wynn shared that it is one of the best return-on-investment treatments.

More in Treatments