Environ Skin Care's Focus Care Radiance+ Intense C-Boost Mela Even Cream is formulated to enhance the effects of the skin's natural vitamin C production, targeting the appearance of hyperpigmentation and premature aging caused by UV exposure.
Courtesy of DermaConcepts
Environ Skin Care's Focus Care Radiance+ Intense C-Boost Mela Even Cream is formulated to enhance the effects of the skin's natural vitamin C production, targeting the appearance of hyperpigmentation and premature aging caused by UV exposure. Packed with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate–an oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C that converts into ascorbic acid within the skin–the cream works to support the benefits of the skin’s antioxidant defense system against environmental damage and hormonal pigment for complexion radiance.
While vitamin C, an ascorbic acid, is one of the most well-known forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is the most stable, says Candace Noonan, director of education at DermaConcepts.
Lipid-Soluble vs. Acid-Based Formulas: The Battle for Optimal Vitamin C Activation
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a form of vitamin C encapsulated in fat, Noonan says—a delivery method scientifically proven to carry 10 times more vitamin C to the skin where it is needed. As a lipid-soluble ingredient, the skin readily accepts ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in comparison to the acid form of vitamin C, as the skin has a much harder time diffusing it.
A recent JAAD study[1] explains that the acidic form of vitamin C has low skin penetrance, instability due to oxidation and potential irritation. However, faster percutaneous absorption of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, due to lipid solubility, has better stability and lower irritancy.
Pigmentation, a natural process in the skin, is influenced by genetics, Noonan says. The body creates pigment daily to shield the skin from environmental factors. However, excessive exposure to elements like sun and UV radiation can push the skin to produce more pigment than usual to protect itself.
“Vitamin C is a crucial ingredient for restoring your skin to its healthy state of balance,” says Noonan.
The goal isn’t to eliminate pigmentation entirely—a natural and essential process of the skin dictated by your genetics. Noonan says the issue arises when this process becomes overactive, leading to hyperpigmentation, often triggered by hormonal changes or UV exposure.
“By using natural ingredients like vitamin C and vitamin E, the focus shifts to restoring balance and managing the effects of pigmentation production, rather than stopping it altogether,” Noonan says.
Supporting the Melanocyte and Keratinocyte Function in the SkinCourtesy of DermaConcepts
Keratinocytes are the primary type of cell found in the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin.
These cells begin in the basal layer, maturing, changing and growing until they ultimately form the “tiles” on the roof of your skin, creating a compact barrier against the environment, Noonan says.
Working in tandem with keratinocytes are melanocytes—pigment-producing cells. Based on genetics, melanocytes generate pigmentation daily to protect the skin from UV radiation. Throughout life, Noonan says exposure to sunlight can amplify this process, resulting in increased pigment production.
The Mela Even Cream, containing vitamin C and E, supports the effects of melanocyte and keratinocyte function by providing antioxidant protection, enhancing the benefits of collagen synthesis and healthy cell turnover, maintaining the appearance of the skin’s structure and tone, Noonan says.
Antioxidants’ Role in UV Exposure Protection
Vitamin C is an essential nutrient, lightening existing pigmentation and acting as a tyrosinase inhibitor, Noonan says—a substance responsible for the production of melanin, helping reduce pigmentation and prevent dark spots on the skin.
“While most pigmentation products focus on this aspect, it’s advisable to include more than just this ingredient in your strategy against pigmentation, as there are several steps in the melanogenic process that contribute to pigmentation beyond tyrosinase activation,” Noonan says.
As vitamin C neutralizes free radicals generated by sun rays, donating electrons to prevent them from damaging skin cells, the Mela Even Cream also blends vitamin E. Science has shown vitamin E enhances the lipid phase of antioxidant protection, Noonan adds, as the vitamin is essential for keeping the cellular membrane protected.
“[Vitamin E] results in more hydrated-looking skin, improved skin texture appearance, enhanced look of skin elasticity, and protection from harmful effects of UV radiation, leading to a more even-looking complexion,” Noonan says.
Usage and Results
Noonan says the cream can be applied to the full face if the damage is extensive, and if the damage is localized, it should be applied to the darkened areas of the skin–used in the morning and evening before moisturizing and using a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
“The commitment required to see results from using the product will vary depending on the severity and cause of the pigmentation,” Noonan says.
Sun-damaged skin with an appearance of uneven tone, when treated with the correct products and paired with sun avoidance, may begin to show improvement in as little as three months, she adds. Hormonal pigmentation, however, may take much longer, as the underlying cause must be accurately addressed before topical skincare can truly be effective.
During her third trimester, Noonan developed melasma, a skin condition common in pregnancy that causes dark patches and discoloration. She explains that addressing the hyperpigmentation was a lengthy process, as it first required tackling underlying hormonal imbalances before her skincare regimen could take effect.
“However, I persisted, knowing that the combination of ingredients I was using was not only helping to improve the appearance of pigmentation in the long term but also providing protection and nourishment in the short term to create healthy-looking skin,” Noonan says.
Incorporating the Environ’s Full Radiance Range along with the Vitamin A step-up system of moisturizers has kept the appearance of Noonan’s skin clear for 18 years after developing severe pigmentation, she says.
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Courtesy of DermaConcepts
Courtesy of DermaConcepts
