Top Derms Agree: These Skin Care Ingredients Work Best

Consumers overwhelmed by skin care options can now look to science for clarity. A new national study led by Northwestern Medicine identifies the most effective skin care ingredients for common concerns like wrinkles, acne, dark spots and more — based on expert consensus from leading dermatologists across 43 institutions.

Reproduced with permission from Northwestern Medicine as the table appears in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Ingredient Review and Consensus

Published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (at press), the study is reportedly the first of its kind to systematically rank ingredients using a rigorous Delphi consensus process. After two rounds of scoring and discussion, only ingredients with strong agreement from the panel made the final recommended list.

According to the article abstract, among the top-ranked ingredients were:

• Azelaic acid, for acne and dark spots;
• Benzoyl peroxide, for acne and oily skin;
• Glycolic acid, for acne and dark spots;
• Mineral sunscreen for fine lines, wrinkles and redness;
• Niacinamide for redness and dark spots;
• Retinoids for signs of aging, acne, dark spots, etc.;
• Salicylic acid for acne and oily skin; and
• Vitamin C, for signs of aging and dark spots.

"This is the first time experts have come together nationally to cut through the overwhelming number of skin care options," said senior study author Murad Alam, M.D., vice chair and professor of dermatology at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine. 

"We wanted to help both doctors and everyday users understand which ingredients are backed by the most expert support." Alam emphasized that more products don’t always lead to better results.

According to a Northwestern Now report, this study helps address a longstanding gap in skin care guidance, as over-the-counter products are not currently subject to the same regulatory scrutiny as prescription medications.