Understanding climate
A decade ago, Gattefossé set out to study seven different cities worldwide to assess how weather influences skincare.
First, what is relative humidity? It measures the amount of water in the air compared to how much the air can hold, expressed as a percentage. Relative humidity is closely linked to temperature. In cold regions, even a small amount of water in the air can create a humid sensation, while in warm climates, much more water is needed for the same feeling. This results in varying humidity levels across different cities.
By examining absolute humidity, researchers found that Singapore and Mumbai are consistently very humid. However, cities such as Paris, New York, and Shanghai experience significant variations in humidity between summer and winter.
Influence of climate on sensory perception
To understand how skin and cosmetics react in tropical conditions, Gattefossé undertook a groundbreaking study by constructing a tropical room with temperatures ranging from 80°F to 90°F (26°C to 32°C) and absolute humidity near 20 g/m³, replicating conditions typical of Singapore.
During this evaluation, a standard moisturizer containing 5% glycerin was assessed.
The findings proved surprising: changes in climate substantially influenced how the product felt on the skin, impacting the sensation of greasiness during application and after, as well as the perceived film residue.
How to create climate-adaptative formulas?
Driven by a commitment to global skincare solutions, Gattefossé developed an innovative wax butter technology. This advancement led to 100% naturally derived emulsifiers and texturizing agents with hygroscopic properties, offering moisturizing benefits and distinctive sensory experiences.
A texturizing ingredient solution: Acticire® MB
A sensory analysis panel evaluated the properties of formulations with 5% glycerin in both temperate and hot, humid conditions. Results were then compared to a similar formulation containing 5% glycerin and 2% Acticire® MB.
The percentage change in sensory perception between temperate and tropical climates for the same cream was analyzed.
The increase in residual film, greasiness, and greasy after-feel were markedly reduced with the inclusion of Acticire® MB. Skin felt lighter and more comfortable, as the invisible film formed by wax esters stabilized the skin feel under hot and humid conditions.
What about emulsifiers based on wax butter technology?
Emulium® Mellifera MB, a PEG-free O/W sensory emulsifier based on beeswax and jojoba wax, demonstrated similar stabilizing effects in hot and humid environments. Adaptable to different climates, it provides lightweight textures and minimal residual film.
Further study of creams formulated with various concentrations of Emulium® Mellifera MB confirmed a consistently non-oily skin feel regardless of temperature or humidity. These creams remain versatile for year-round use, offering comfort and protection in winter and sensory stability in summer.
After decades of lipid chemistry R&D studies, Gattefossé recently launched Emulium® Dermolea MB, an O/W emulsifier with a lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes, offering long-term soothing effects. Also based on wax butter technology, sensory analysis performed in different climates confirmed the adaptability of this ingredient.
Data shows that emulsions made with 4% of Emulium® Dermolea MB present a similar sensory whatever the climate, with a non-significant increase in greasiness, shine, tacky afterfeel, and greasy afterfeel.
Note: Emulsifiers or texturizing agents are not the only factors determining a formula’s climate adaptability. Other components, such as a high concentration of glycols, can significantly impact the perceived sensory difference depending on weather conditions. Consider the whole formula.
Gattefossé’s exploration of climate impact on skincare continues. The wax butter technology paves the way for climate-resilient formulas.
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