Addressing cellular functions is a key to maintaining healthy skin as we age. Popular skin care ingredients for aging like retinol increase cellular turnover to replace existing cells with younger healthy cells.
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Addressing cellular functions is a key to maintaining healthy skin as we age. Popular skin care ingredients for aging like retinol increase cellular turnover to replace existing cells with younger healthy cells.
Influencing the key cellular functions is what makes the biomolecule nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (abbreviated NAD or NAD+ and sometimes referred to as nadide) an intriguing ingredient in anti-aging skin care. Per the American Chemical Society1, NAD is present in all living cells and consists of two nucleotides, one with an adenine base and the other with a nicotinamide base, which are joined by their phosphate groups.
NAD levels rapidly decline with age, which can contribute to fatigue, inflammation, illness and deteriorating health. As a vital source of energy within the cell, NAD supports healthy aging by encouraging balanced biological reactions.
According to a 2020 Study2, “NAD+ can directly and indirectly influence many key cellular functions, including metabolic pathways, DNA repair, chromatin remodeling, cellular senescence and immune cell function.”
The ingredient is slowly making its way into mainstream skin care. Applying NAD directly to the skin cells has been found to increase the production of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and keratin. To maximize benefits, experts told Pop Sugar3 that NAD is best used in leave-on products like serums and moisturizers. Serums will have the highest concentration of NAD and NAD-boosting ingredients.
NAD is well tolerated by all skin types, but due to the instability of the ingredient, precursors and boosters, it is recommended to avoid using products with NAD at the same time as highly acidic or alkaline products such as skin peels, according to Eugene He, biotechnologist and owner of Invity, a Singapore-based premium science-based brand that offers a facial sheet mask infused with NAD.
Invity’s SuperNAD Youth Activating Facial Sheet Mask aims to boost NAD levels, address three cellular root causes of skin aging—sirtuins, AMPK and ATP—and stimulate longevity gene Klotho, delaying the aging process of skin cells.
Naderma offers a moisturizer that has NAD and snail mucin, another skin care ingredient growing in popularity. The Naderma NAD+ Daily Moisturizing Cream hydrates and energizes the skin with a powerful blend of snail mucin, NAD, antioxidants and probiotics.
Snail mucin is the gel-like liquid secreted from a snail. It has versatile skin care benefits, including hydrating, plumping skin and smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles in dehydrated skin. Snail mucin also has regenerative benefits and can help soothe the skin with its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. The ingredient is ideal for dry, sensitive or acne-prone skin, according to dermatologist Julie Russak, M.D.
Along with its potential in skin care, the American Chemical Society reports that David A. Sinclair of Harvard Medical School believes NAD+ has potential to be given prophylactically to prevent or reduce diabetes, cancer and other age-related conditions.
References:
1. ACS: Molecule of the Week Archive, August 14, 2017
2. Covarrubias AJ, Perrone R, Grozio A, Verdin E. NAD+ metabolism and its roles in cellular processes during aging. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2021 Feb;22(2):119-141. doi: 10.1038/s41580-020-00313-x. Epub 2020 Dec 22. PMID: 33353981; PMCID: PMC7963035.
3. NAD Is the Latest Buzzy Beauty Ingredient Said to Prevent Skin Aging’ by Jess Beech, Pop Sugar, December 2023
