
One of the particularly exciting developments in the world of skin care ingredients to emerge in recent years is the use of phytomelatonin in skin care products. This plant-derived compound, closely related to the human sleep hormone melatonin, has caught the attention of medical aesthetics professionals due to its potential to revolutionize skin health by tapping into skin's circadian rhythm.
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One of the particularly exciting developments in the world of skin care ingredients to emerge in recent years is the use of phytomelatonin in skin care products. This plant-derived compound, closely related to the human sleep hormone melatonin, has caught the attention of medical aesthetics professionals due to its potential to revolutionize skin health by tapping into skin's circadian rhythm.
The skin, like other organs, has its own circadian rhythm. This 24-hour cycle influences various skin functions, including transepidermal water loss, keratinocyte proliferation and blood flow. Skin permeability peaks in the evening, while DNA repair activity is highest in the morning.1 These rhythms are controlled by clock genes in skin cells, which respond to environmental cues such as light and temperature.2
Phytomelatonin has shown promising effects on skin health and the regulation of skin function. Understanding the skin's circadian rhythm can help optimize skin care routines. For instance, skin absorption of topical medications is highest around 4 AM. Evening application of moisturizers and treatments may be more beneficial due to increased skin permeability at night.1 Incorporating phytomelatonin into nighttime skin care routines could potentially enhance its regenerative and protective effects on the skin.
Phytomelatonin demonstrates remarkable efficacy in neutralizing a wide array of free radicals, including hydroxyl, alkoxy and peroxy radicals. Its antioxidant properties extend to non-radical oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide and singlet oxygen. This comprehensive free radical scavenging activity has a significant impact on protecting DNA from oxidative damage.4 Research indicates that phytomelatonin enhances DNA repair capacity. Cells pretreated with melatonin exhibit significantly shorter Olive tail moments upon mutagen exposure, suggesting improved DNA repair. Phytomelatonin affects key genes involved in DNA damage responsive pathways, including CEP152 and N4BP2L2, which are associated with genomic integrity maintenance and DNA damage checkpoint control.5
Phytomelatonin contributes to skin barrier function by activating nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), which protects keratinocytes against UVR-induced oxidative stress. This activation leads to the expression of antioxidative and cytoprotective proteins, including heme oxygenase-1 and glutathione peroxidase. In addition, phytomelatonin's ability to cross cell membranes and reach mitochondria helps maintain mitochondrial homeostasis, crucial for skin health.6
Recent studies have shown promising results for phytomelatonin in treating various dermatological conditions. Research indicates its potential in addressing androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium, with one study demonstrating increased hair density and decreased hair loss in humans using melatonin-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers. Additionally, phytomelatonin's anti-inflammatory properties suggest possible applications in managing rosacea and other inflammatory skin disorders.3
The unique properties of phytomelatonin open up possibilities for personalized skin care solutions. Research has shown that phytomelatonin can triple the vitality of skin cells in laboratory settings.7 This finding, combined with its ability to promote cellular changes associated with skin regeneration, suggests potential for highly effective anti-aging formulations tailored to individual skin types and concerns.
To top it off, innovative delivery systems are enhancing phytomelatonin's efficacy in skin care. Nanoformulations, such as niosomes and liposomes, have demonstrated improved skin penetration and sustained release of phytomelatonin. One study reported that melatonin-loaded ethosomes achieved 70.71% entrapment efficiency, surpassing liposomes (49.2%) and resulting in better skin drug deposition and tolerability. These advanced delivery methods hold promise for maximizing phytomelatonin's benefits in future skin care products.
References
- Lyons, A. B., Moy, L., Moy, R., & Tung, R. (2019). Circadian Rhythm and the Skin: A Review of the Literature. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 12(9), 42–45.
- Duan, J., Greenberg, E. N., Karri, S. S., & Andersen, B. (2021). The circadian clock and diseases of the skin. FEBS letters, 595(19), 2413–2436. https://doi.org/10.1002/1873-3468.14192
- Arnao, M. B., & Hernández-Ruiz, J. (2018). The Potential of Phytomelatonin as a Nutraceutical. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 23(1), 238. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23010238
- Galano, A., Tan, D. X., & Reiter, R. J. (2018). Melatonin: A Versatile Protector against Oxidative DNA Damage. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 23(3), 530. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23030530
- Liu, R., Fu, A., Hoffman, A. E., Zheng, T., & Zhu, Y. (2013). Melatonin enhances DNA repair capacity possibly by affecting genes involved in DNA damage responsive pathways. BMC cell biology, 14, 1. https://doi.org/10.1186/1471-2121-14-1
- Rusanova, I., Martínez-Ruiz, L., Florido, J., Rodríguez-Santana, C., Guerra-Librero, A., Acuña-Castroviejo, D., & Escames, G. (2019). Protective Effects of Melatonin on the Skin: Future Perspectives. International journal of molecular sciences, 20(19), 4948. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms20194948
- https://ireneforteskincare.com/products/phytomelatonin-rejuvenating-serum?srsltid=AfmBOoqqWkqkczdcyVkjdzn2ATd1ZcG3gqEQ-WUmMix2B3mhzEYxoLHG