Microneedling Opens a Portal—Now Clinicians Have a Chance to Shape What Goes In

Recent beauty reports indicate that one of the top-growing facial services right now is microneedling, especially as micro-needling widens its reach via at-home tools. Microneedling is a common technique for skin renewal, claiming a resurgence since the emergence of PRP and stem cell therapy. Laying the groundwork for these new technologies to penetrate deeper, microneedling is also enabling an avenue to bolster patients’ esteemed skincare routines. What serums patients are using in their at-home and in-office microneedling routines matter greatly, however, and the routine providers layout before and after matter too. 

Microneedling’s Growing Popularity and Skincare Potential

Spate’s recent popularity index [1] reported that Google facilitated 538.9K average monthly searches, while TikTok saw 9.7 million average weekly views about microneedling. This, the report states, presents an opportunity for beauty brands to offer pre- and post-treatment care products for the recovery phase, but it also presents an opportunity to position topicals and particular actives that are especially beneficial to penetrate into the skin during microneedling, beyond PRP and exosomes. 

Microneedling creates microchannels that boost ingredient absorption—unlocking the full potential of serums when paired with the right actives.Courtesy of MarijaBazarova at Adobe StockWith microneedling becoming an accessible routine at home, the report suggests that brands should exercise caution when encouraging consumers to undertake even minimally invasive procedures at home. Its popularity signals a need for brands to be transparent and provide educational content, an important extension to merely providing these treatments that are now consumer-friendly. 

Because microneedling creates controlled micro-injuries that form temporary channels for enhanced product penetration, it opens sort of like a portal to the skin, allowing beneficial ingredients to lock into the skin once it heals and mends. If serums are applied after these channels close, Lua Padova, an esthetician at Body+Beauty Lab in Philadelphia, says absorption is less efficient and the overall effectiveness is reduced.

Choosing the Right Serums for Microneedling

When evaluating which serum to use with microneedling, Padova says it’s important to avoid ones with irritants or strong actives such as retinoids, vitamin C, alpha hydroxy acids, like glycolic and lactic acid, and beta hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid. While these ingredients are beneficial for surface-level, every day routines, when introduced through microneedling, these ingredients can cause irritation and inflammation.

“Once the stratum corneum is bypassed, the most effective ingredients to deliver are hyaluronic acid, growth factors and platelet-rich plasma,” she says. “Exosomes are also highly beneficial because of their role in cellular communication.”

Tailoring Treatments Based on Needle Depth and Ingredient Type

The needle depth, however, plays a role in determining which topical to use, as hydrophilic molecules, like hyaluronic acid, are best delivered more superficially and don't necessarily need to be penetrated deeply, she says. Growth factors and PRP, on the other hand, should be introduced deeper into the skin. Lipophilic molecules, found in face oils, are not ideal for microneedling.

Once the correct active, compatible with a patient's needs, is discovered, Padova says the skin should be in a calm and hydrated state before treatment, pointing to the opportunity that brands have to curate post-op and pre-op skincare routines before and after undergoing needles. 

Factors such as serum pH, proper cleansing, skin hydration and even the temperature of the treatment environment can all influence how ingredients perform, she adds, and how the skin responds during microneedling.

“Normal post-treatment reactions include redness, mild swelling and pinpoint bleeding right after the procedure, [and] within 2–3 days, patients may notice mild tightness, dryness or light flaking,” she says. “Concerning reactions that should be addressed by a professional include pustules, severe swelling, rash or itching and persistent burning.”

Though microneedling does involve a level of invasiveness, it works to trigger the body's natural healing process so that when the skin mends, the topicals mend with it, creating a renewed environment that clings to beneficial ingredients, resulting in increased collagen and elastin production–all key for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness [2]. 

The Synergy of Microneedling and Skincare Ingredients

“Microneedling allows ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin, working in synergy with the body’s natural healing process to support repair, boost hydration, stimulate collagen production and help reduce inflammation,” Padova says.

The growing popularity of microneedling, especially with the rise of at-home devices, presents a timely opportunity—not just for skincare brands, but for consumers and providers alike—to rethink and optimize how active ingredients are delivered to the skin. This evolving skincare ritual allows brands to innovate with purpose-built pre- and post-treatment products, while also empowering patients to approach microneedling with more intentional routines, guiding them in-office, but now at home. 

References: 

1- https://spatenyc.notion.site/Popularity-Index-FAQ-1b3722942b5f80198f79ea50a4819d0c

2- https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11499218/