Problem-solving Beauty Ingredients

Targeted beauty ingredients are gaining popularity, addressing issues such as delivery challenges, scalp sebum production and more. In this roundup, we explore some of the most innovative solutions designed to tackle these specific concerns.

Problem: Beta-Carotene’s Skin Penetration

Bicosome SL’s Bicotene Natural, distributed by Ultra Chemical, is a natural-origin delivery system designed to stabilize and precisely target beta-carotene, a pro-retinol precursor, to specific layers of the skin.Pavel Danilyuk at Pexels

Solution: Bicotene Natural

Bicosome SL’s Bicotene Natural, distributed by Ultra Chemical, is a natural-origin delivery system designed to stabilize and precisely target beta-carotene, a pro-retinol precursor, to specific layers of the skin.

Beta-carotene, on its own, is highly unstable and prone to rapid degradation when exposed to UV radiation. To address this, the technology utilizes proprietary Bicosome Natural technology (INCI: Aqua, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Lysolecithin, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Beta-Carotene), which employs a double encapsulation system to significantly enhance stability and efficacy.

This encapsulation method reportedly ensures superior skin penetration, delivering up to eight times more beta-carotene to the epidermis compared to traditional liposome systems.

The system comprises two key components: internal "smart discs" that carry the active ingredient and an external lipid vesicle that encases these discs. The vesicle navigates through the narrow spaces of the stratum corneum, delivering the smart discs to specific skin layers. Once in the target layer, the smart discs interact with their environment, ensuring precise delivery of beta-carotene where it is needed most.

Bicotene Natural is suitable for a range of applications, including skin care, color cosmetics, and sun care products. Its key benefits include:

• Potent antioxidant activity
• UVA/UVB protection
• Support for a youthful, healthy skin appearance

With a recommended usage level of 1–3%, Bicotene Natural is fully compliant with global cosmetic regulations, including those in China.

Problem: Dandruff-Causing Yeast

Pixalia focuses on combating Malassezia restricta, a yeast linked to dandruff formation.Moose Photos at Pexels

Solution: Pixalia 

Expanscience Laboratoires’ Pixalia (INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Cleome Gynandra Leaf Extract) is a polyphenol-rich ingredient, particularly abundant in flavonoids, that protects the skin from oxidative stress and inflammation. Originally developed to address the needs of acne-prone skin, Pixalia also helps regulate sebum production and supports microbiota balance by targeting specific lipid markers.

Now venturing into scalp care, Pixalia focuses on combating Malassezia restricta, a yeast linked to dandruff formation. In a 28-day self-assessment study using a leave-on formula:

• 90.3% of participants reported a noticeable reduction in dandruff.
• 77.4% said they felt less self-conscious about their scalp condition.

According to Expanscience, these results highlight both the functional and emotional benefits of Pixalia. By promoting a balanced scalp microbiota, Pixalia fosters a healthier and more comfortable scalp environment.

Problem: Broad-Spectrum Preservation for Clean Beauty

Designed for both leave-on and rinse-off personal care products, AmpliPQ is odorless, colorless and highly compatible with fragrances and colorants. Its versatility makes it easy to incorporate into a wide range of formulations, including hand care, hair care, skin care and body care.Kaboompics.com at Pexels

Solution: AmpliPQ 

Curie Co.’s AmpliPQ is a preservation system that reportedly dramatically enhances the antimicrobial efficacy of sodium benzoate, extending its effectiveness to pH levels as high as 8.5—far beyond its traditional range.

AmpliPQ (proposed INCI: Sodium Benzoate (and) EDTA (and) Polyamine) offers a solution for formulators seeking phenoxyethanol-free, clean-label products without compromising microbial protection. This water-soluble preservative combines sodium benzoate with a proprietary pH adjuvant and chelating agent, delivering broad-spectrum efficacy.

Designed for both leave-on and rinse-off personal care products, AmpliPQ is odorless, colorless and highly compatible with fragrances and colorants. Its versatility makes it easy to incorporate into a wide range of formulations, including hand care, hair care, skin care and body care.

For optimal results, Curie Co. recommends usage levels of 2% for leave-on products and 3% for rinse-off formulations.

AmpliPQ adheres to U.S. and EU cosmetic regulations while meeting clean beauty standards set by major retailers, including Walmart Clean Beauty, Target Clean and Ulta Conscious Beauty. It is free from parabens, formaldehyde donors, isothiazolinones and phenoxyethanol, addressing both regulatory requirements and consumer safety preferences.

Problem: Unpleasant Tasting Nutricosmetics with High Active Loads

The technology has been refined to deliver more advanced, complex and nuanced flavor profiles in sugar-free liquid formats, and also to mask bitter, metallic and otherwise difficult actives more effectively than before.Tolsa

Solution

Tosla Nutricosmetics’s Velious 3.0, the latest evolution of its flavor-masking technology, is designed to eliminate unpleasant tastes in liquid beauty supplements—without relying on sugar or artificial additives.

Initially developed to mask off-notes in collagen beauty supplements, Velious technology has since advanced to also carry active ingredients. Velious 3.0 builds on this foundation, supporting higher concentrations of actives while ensuring formulation stability, color integrity and safety. According to Tosla, testing revealed that sugar-based formulations showed color changes over time, whereas Velious 3.0 maintained stable appearance and performance.

In addition, the system expands the range of achievable flavor profiles, allowing for more complex, sugar-free combinations that elevate sensory experiences.

Velious 3.0 enhances the ability to mask bitter, metallic and challenging active ingredients, delivering nuanced flavor profiles in sugar-free liquid formats. This system reduces reliance on sugar and artificial additives, empowering formulators to create functional products that balance taste with efficacy. Its sugar-free approach appeals to health-conscious consumers and supports the growing demand for products promoting overall well-being.

Tosla is also targeting the well-aging market. Current research focuses on expanding flavor diversity, tailoring sensory experiences for specific demographics, and maintaining cutting-edge safety and performance standards.

Problem: Summer Hair Stressors

Solution

Expanscience Laboratoires' Soline Bio (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables) is a concentrated organic sunflower seed oil sourced from France. Renowned in skin care for its ability to boost ceramide levels and provide long-lasting hydration, Soline Bio is now making waves in hair care, offering protective and nourishing benefits.

Ex vivo studies on hair subjected to summer-like stressors—such as sun exposure, salt water and repeated brushing—demonstrated the remarkable effects of Soline Bio. It was shown to:

• Seal the hair cuticle,
• Minimize breakage,
• Enhance softness, and
• Simplify detangling, whether hair is wet or dry.

According to Expanscience Laboratoires, hair treated with Soline Bio retains its strength, smoothness and resilience, even when exposed to environmental damage.

Problem: Achieving Stability—Without Emulsifiers

Valida S+ provides a skin-smoothing, wrinkle-filling and blurring effect and is recommended for use in aqueous systems, serums, creams, oil-in-water emulsions and color cosmetics.MART PRODUCTION at Pexels

Solution

Valida S+ (INCI: Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum), developed by Sappi and distributed by Ultra Chemical, is a highly fibrillated cellulose designed to stabilize particles in suspension and oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions—without requiring an emulsifier.

According to Ultra Chemical, Valida S+ is effective even at low dosages, delivering excellent performance with minimal impact on viscosity. It offers high thixotropy and significant shear-thinning properties, making it an ideal choice for spray applications where maintaining suspension without dripping is essential.

In addition to enhancing spreadability and texture, Valida S+ provides a skin-smoothing, wrinkle-filling and blurring effect, elevating both the visual appeal and sensory experience of formulations.

This versatile, bio-based additive is sourced from sustainably managed PEFC- and FSC-certified forests and is recommended for use in:

• aqueous systems,
• serums,
• creams,
• oil-in-water emulsions, and
• color cosmetics.

Valida S+ comes in two formats: CS-3 (a 3% gel) and CS-8 (an 8% paste). Both are preserved with sodium benzoate and citric acid, are COSMOS-certified, and are suitable for various applications including hair care, skin care, color cosmetics and sun care. Recommended usage levels are more than 5% for the paste and more than 12% for the gel.